Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Wood Does Rot - Home Repairs and Advice

Let me give you some advice right now," All Wood Rots Eventually". I have heard it all when it comes to this wood or that wood lasting this long or that long........ Hello....... All wood is going to rot at some period of it's life.

With that out of the way we can focus on some wood seems to last a little longer under certain conditions.

Teak is a wood that has a lot of natural oil in it. But you won't frame a house with it. Teak is used on boats and expensive outdoor furniture. It is a excellent wood to use when building a ship. The woods natural oils seem to create a protective barrier around it allowing it to last a long time even at sea. Great wood for the outdoors...

Oak is a excellent choice for almost every wood finish inside your home. It is used for kitchen cabinets, entertainment centers, flooring, trim and furniture. Oak is a hard wood and can take a lot of abuse from almost anything except water. I have seen a nice piece of furniture get stained from just setting one glass on it for ten minutes. Great Wood For Inside Your Home.

Poplar is also a great choice for inside your house. This wood is used by many finish carpenters for making cabinets and other built ins for your house. It is also popular not poplar for wood trim . Most of the poplar that is used inside of your home will eventually get painted. So that makes poplar a inexpensive choice of wood for homeowners that want a nice painted finish on their interior wood projects. Great Wood For Inside Your Home.

Douglas Fir is the most common source of lumber used on the west coast of the United States. This is a extremely durable wood product. On the East Coast they use southern pine and the nominal thickness is usually two inches by four inches for a 2 x 4 . With Douglas Fir a 2 x 4 is one inch and a half by three and one half inches to support the same weight structurally. In my opinion one of the best home framing materials.

Douglas Fir can and has been for a long time now. A great source for clear finish materials used inside of the house. You will see a nice orange or brown looking piece of wood stained naturally in some older home. This is Douglas Fir. It can be a bit pricy but really gives a log cabin look to your home.

Redwood is a great choice for inside or outside your home. I love Redwood it has a nice look to it stained naturally. Redwood is used for a lot of siding, fences, decks and out door furniture. The main problem with Redwood is that is is soft and will get scratched easily. Now for the facts about Redwood. It does rot and termites will eat it.

Wood myth number one eliminated. I have heard stories about wood that termites won't eat. Well Redwood is not one of them. I have seen termites tearing this stuff up. Don't get caught up in the hype that this or that wood will last for 5 years or 50 years. Under the right conditions almost all woods will rot at a accelerated rate.

For more information on wood damage, check out wood repair at http://gregvan.com/wood_repair.htm

Copyright 2008 Greg Vanden Berge All Rights Reserved

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more building stairs books and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry. Few Home Remodeling Rules

Siding
Stucco Finish Around Windows

Monday, March 30, 2009

Choosing Whole House Water Filters

When shopping for whole house water filters, you have a number of choices. The right choice in a whole house water filter depends on the contaminants in your supply. The information here should help you choose the right product.

Do you have a private well?

If you have a private well, the US Environmental Protection Agency recommends that you have annual testing done to confirm the purity of your supply. Testing can be expensive, but you need a reliable and accurate record. It's not just about "which" whole house water filters to purchase. A testing record can be used to prove that incoming industry or construction damaged your supply.

Are you serviced by a public treatment facility?

If you are serviced by a public provider your primary need is chlorine removal. You want a whole house water filter that is UL (Underwriters laboratory) or NSF certified. WQA certifications are made by a trade group that allows members to "claim" performance, without providing the data to back up their claims.

In addition to chlorine removal, the removal of microscopic particles is recommended. Those systems that filter down to 5 microns provide the cleanest drinking water. If you are concerned about cysts, you will still need a kitchen system that filters down to one micron.

How much should you pay?

If you have a private well, a whole house water filter purification system can be quite expensive. It just depends on what contaminants are present. People who live near the coast often have a high sediment and sodium content. You will likely need prefiltration and a kitchen faucet purifier.

If you are on a public water line, the best whole house water filters on the market can be purchased for less than a thousand dollars. There are more expensive brands, but there is no reason to pay $6000 for a whole house water filter when you can get the same effectiveness in a less expensive product. If you shop at a retail store, you will pay more, simply because of mark-up.

Do I really need whole house water filters?

If you have a private well, you might not need a whole house water filter. But, anyone serviced by a public treatment facility can benefit from chlorine removal.

It is a necessary evil, as it controls bacterial growth and prevents outbreaks of waterborne illnesses. But, it is bad for the digestive system. In the shower it damages the skin and hair. Cooking with and showering in chlorinated water causes the release of toxic gases.

So, you are not only filtering your water, you are also improving the quality of your home's indoor air. If you have asthma or another chronic respiratory condition, your health will improve when you improve the quality of the air.

Your clothes will last longer and the colors will be brighter, because you are not constantly "bleaching" them. Whole house water filters can save you money and protect your health, as long as you buy the right product.

Derek Reeve runs an informational website that provides details of the best whole house water filters. If you're serious about improving the quality of water you use visit water purification systems for home to find the most efficient, effective and affordable products available.

Are Replacement Bulbs For Exit Signs a Thing of the Past

If you jump into the 21st century and utilize a truly remarkable line of sustainable products known as photoluminescents, then you will never use or replace another light bulb in any your emergency exit signs ever again. The reason why? There will no longer be light bulbs involved. As a matter of fact, you will no longer need electricity to power these signs either.

Photoluminescent technology has been around for over 50 years, but it has not been an acceptable option for approved egress signs until now. You see, photoluminescent products contain plastic coatings that are infused with pigments that glow in the dark. Now glow in the dark items have been around for decades, but because of today's high-tech research and development, the materials have been greatly enhanced. Today these photoluminescent materials can glow brighter and hold a charge for much longer periods of time, and because of this fact photoluminescent exit signs and emergency signs are now recommended by federal agencies, osha and other governing bodies. So now I am sure you can see that the light bulb illuminated signs are in danger of extinction.

Unless you are crazy...light bulbs ARE a thing of the past, for exit signs anyway. This is why... Photoluminescent exit signs are less expensive than the old fashioned signs. They do not use light bulbs, which are also expensive and need to be replaced continually throughout the sign's use. They do NOT require electricity to power them, which is also expensive. They cost hardly anything to install, whereas the old electric powered signs require you to hire an electrician to install. Do you see the pattern here? So why would anyone in their right mind want to use the old fashioned emergency exit signs that require electricity or batters and light bulbs?

So there you have it, I predict that changing light bulbs in emergency exit signs IS a thing of the past... or soon to be.

I wrote this article because of my experience with these signs. I recently rehabbed an old office building and decided to go with the latest technology for my emergency exit routes, and I found this to be a no-brainer, and I just wanted to share!

I found all this info at GloBrite Systems. They were very helpful with making sure I had the right signs to comply with the fire codes in my building. They really know there stuff! Check them out at http://www.globritesystem.com

Non-electric and easy to install, the GloBrite Eco Exit PM 100 is the only non-radioactive, zero energy and zero maintenance photoluminescent exit sign on the market that is visible at 100 feet.

For more information on how these signs can reduce costs and help the environment, head to http://www.globritesystem.com

Sunday, March 29, 2009

Carpentry and Construction Technology Program

The construction industry is one industry which offers a good number of employment opportunities today, especially to carpenters. As well as new construction projects, carpenters continue to be in demand in repair and remodeling work. Specifically, the markets which are most promising for these skilled workers are Residential building with the rise in housing plans, as well as commercial carpentry. In 2006 alone, carpenters held approximately 1.5 million jobs.

Some factors attributed to the high demand for Carpentry and Construction technicians include the imminent high rate of retirement of workers in the coming years and the comparatively smaller number of people with the right carpentry and construction qualifications getting into the industry. It is actually being forecast that the number of salary jobs in the construction industry will continue to grow by an average of 11 percent until 2014.

As the construction industry maintains its competitiveness, more training programs are being offered by vocational and technical institutions. People who would like to make themselves more valued employees can do so by earning an associate degree in carpentry and construction technology in less than two years.

Carpentry involves a variety of work from blueprint reading, cutting and sizing wood and other construction materials, installing drywall and windows, roof framing, laying floors, making cabinets and building stairs among many others.

Due to the nature of their job, well-rounded carpenters who can work in remodeling and residential and commercial construction with ease have a greater potential for advancement. More than all the workers involved in construction, the carpenters utilize the highest number of hand tools ranging from the hammer, chisel, sanders as well as power tools such as saws and electric drills.

Although carpentry skills can be gained while doing actual work, there are now vocational schools that offer formal training and apprenticeships on this field. Employers want an employee who can come to work already equipped with the carpentry skills he or she needs to have to do a good job. Additionally, most employers prefer to hire carpenters who have undergone apprenticeship because of the extensive training it provides. Some even give weight to previous experience in the military service.

Carpenters who want to land in an entry-level job are not necessarily required to have college education. High school graduates with the right skills, notably in mathematics and problem solving, good eye and hand coordination as well as physically fitness can are more likely to be qualified to start working.

However, before one is considered as a skilled carpenter, several years of formal education and hands-on training through apprenticeship are vital.

The proper instruction and basic training can be gained from accredited vocational and technical schools as well as from online programs. A course in carpentry and construction technology normally combines classroom lecture and practical or on-the-job training.

With the right knowledge and skills, any carpenter can outshine other applicants for the job and has a bigger opportunity to start work at a higher level compared to those with no formal training. As they gain experience, they can later advance to the position of either carpentry supervisor or general construction supervisor.

Construction projects show no sign of stopping in the future. Whether there's a global financial crisis or not, structures from houses to commercial buildings, roads to bridges will always be built. Carpenters who have good experience and are capable of performing different tasks have a bright future ahead of them.

Triangle Tech equips students with the skills for succeeding. With comprehensive Carpentry & Construction Technology courses students learn modern construction methods along with age-old traditions of craftsmanship. When you complete the Carpentry training program, Triangle Tech will help you with Job Placement and help you find the job you've always wanted.

Saturday, March 28, 2009

Window Header Framing Problems - Building Problems

As a building contractor it is my job to assemble the house to meet the specifications from the architect and the structural engineer. I do this by looking at the building plans and installing the specified lumber sizes. I can take it upon myself to install a larger size wood beam or window header adding an additional cost to the job of course. I don't think so.

It's not uncommon for a framing contractor that has an additional 5 foot scrap piece of 4 x 8 left over that he now has no use for. He can then choose to use the 4 x 8 instead of a 4 x 6 for the window header. This type of building is common and acceptable.

If the structural engineer calls out for 4 x 6 window and door headers do not take it upon yourself to replace the 4 x 6 with a 4 x 4. I have seen too many framing contractors or carpenters make an on-the-job judgment like this.

A good example would be a single story house with 2 foot wide windows that require a 4 x 6 window header. As the carpenter builds homes over the years he can come to his own conclusion that a 4x4 will work fine for this application. Again keep this in mind as a framing contractor and a carpenter you are assembling the home not designing it.

Do not change the sizes of any headers or beams.

A long time ago carpenters used a standard rule of thumb, you could go up two sizes larger than the window opening for your header. Let me give you an example of what I'm trying to explain.

A 4 foot wide window opening would require a 4 x 6 window header. A 6 foot window opening would require a 4 x 8 window header. This should give you an idea of what I mean by going up two sizes larger than the window opening to figure out the lumber necessary to use for your window header.

This rule of thumb does not necessarily apply in today's building industry. The reason for this is structural changes from earthquake damage. The structural requirements that are required for building a home require a lot more metal bracing and strapping. Therefore some of the lumber requirements for beam sizes and window headers will be different.

This message is for general contractors, framing contractors and carpenters. When installing a window header and you take it upon yourself to change the size you also assume the responsibility if the building fails. This type of mistake is common and you guys know what I'm talking about.

It's not worth it. Keep in mind you are the assembler and not the designer of the building you are working on.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more Building and Remodeling Library and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

Visit us and get more information on building and remodeling your homes and House Framing Structural Repairs

Rough Looking Spanish Tile Roof

Thursday, March 26, 2009

Before Starting Home Renovations

With talks of recession and the cost of oil skyrocketing, consumers are becoming more energy conscience in their daily lives. The talk around the patio this summer is the low interest rates on vehicles and other promotional items to encourage them to continue purchasing the "typical" gas guzzling vehicle. The conversation may flow towards the new hybrid cars available from various companies. One conversation that happens rarely is how consumer's can make their homes more energy efficient.

Consumers tend to change their old 20 year old furnace when it "konks" out and no longer provides heat. Windows are replaced when the old windows are no longer aesthetically appealing. Insulation in the basement is added when they decide to refinish and the attic insulation is never a concern. Consumer's today have more knowledge of their vehicles than they do their largest investment.

The ecoEnergy Program, launched in 2007, by the Federal Government provides the education that a homeowner requires when making energy efficient decisions. As a bonus, Natural Resources Canada and the Ontario Ministry of Energy provides up to $10,000 in grants when making Energy Efficient upgrades. The education received by having an ecoEnergy evaluation is priceless. Homeowners are educated on how their home operates as a system and how one component is vital to another component in the house. Homeowners must have an initial evaluation prior to performing any Energy Efficient upgrades. This evaluation should include:

* Detailed certified examination

* Blower door test to determine air leakage

* Standby power loss demo

* Tour of air leakage sites

* Analysis of heating and cooling equipment

* Assessment of insulation values

* Comprehensive list of energy trouble spots

* Prioritized energy action list

* Official EnerGuide rating label

* Energy Saving Advice

* Complete report presentation on-site

As with any purchasing decision, it is always advisable to shop around and get three quotes for an ecoEnergy evaluation. Some advisor's provide the ecoEnergy report presentation on site, where others process the report in a central location where it is then mailed to homeowner within two weeks.

Once the preliminary evaluation is conducted the homeowner has 18 months to complete some or all of the renovations recommended. The ecoEnergy advisor returns to conduct another blower door test and document the upgrades performed in the home.

Lastly, the renovation contractor is the last person a homeowner will see when making their investment. It is always advisable to work with a contractor who, not only provides information about their product, but also encourages having an ecoEnergy evaluation performed on their home. A contractor who advises this to the homeowner is not threatened to 3rd party unbiased advice and has provided the homeowner the opportunity to receive the grants available and will put off the installation date (for a reasonable period of time) to keep their homeowner satisfied.

About the Writer

Trina Stewart has been working with Renovation Contractors and homeowners since 1996. She has been intimately involved with various programs including the Window Wise National Certification Program, Energuide for Houses Program, and ecoEnergy. Her reputation as being an information source for contractors, homeowners, local utilities, municipalities, and other organizations has contributed to her success in the renovation industry.

Trina Stewart is the President of Trina Stewart Consulting which offers consulting and virtual administration services to businesses across The Golden Triangle and the GTA. She is currently Marketing Development Specialist for The House Whisperers (http://www.thehousewhisperers.ca), an ecoEnergy Service Organization servicing BC and Ontario.

Before Starting Home Renovations

With talks of recession and the cost of oil skyrocketing, consumers are becoming more energy conscience in their daily lives. The talk around the patio this summer is the low interest rates on vehicles and other promotional items to encourage them to continue purchasing the "typical" gas guzzling vehicle. The conversation may flow towards the new hybrid cars available from various companies. One conversation that happens rarely is how consumer's can make their homes more energy efficient.

Consumers tend to change their old 20 year old furnace when it "konks" out and no longer provides heat. Windows are replaced when the old windows are no longer aesthetically appealing. Insulation in the basement is added when they decide to refinish and the attic insulation is never a concern. Consumer's today have more knowledge of their vehicles than they do their largest investment.

The ecoEnergy Program, launched in 2007, by the Federal Government provides the education that a homeowner requires when making energy efficient decisions. As a bonus, Natural Resources Canada and the Ontario Ministry of Energy provides up to $10,000 in grants when making Energy Efficient upgrades. The education received by having an ecoEnergy evaluation is priceless. Homeowners are educated on how their home operates as a system and how one component is vital to another component in the house. Homeowners must have an initial evaluation prior to performing any Energy Efficient upgrades. This evaluation should include:

* Detailed certified examination

* Blower door test to determine air leakage

* Standby power loss demo

* Tour of air leakage sites

* Analysis of heating and cooling equipment

* Assessment of insulation values

* Comprehensive list of energy trouble spots

* Prioritized energy action list

* Official EnerGuide rating label

* Energy Saving Advice

* Complete report presentation on-site

As with any purchasing decision, it is always advisable to shop around and get three quotes for an ecoEnergy evaluation. Some advisor's provide the ecoEnergy report presentation on site, where others process the report in a central location where it is then mailed to homeowner within two weeks.

Once the preliminary evaluation is conducted the homeowner has 18 months to complete some or all of the renovations recommended. The ecoEnergy advisor returns to conduct another blower door test and document the upgrades performed in the home.

Lastly, the renovation contractor is the last person a homeowner will see when making their investment. It is always advisable to work with a contractor who, not only provides information about their product, but also encourages having an ecoEnergy evaluation performed on their home. A contractor who advises this to the homeowner is not threatened to 3rd party unbiased advice and has provided the homeowner the opportunity to receive the grants available and will put off the installation date (for a reasonable period of time) to keep their homeowner satisfied.

About the Writer

Trina Stewart has been working with Renovation Contractors and homeowners since 1996. She has been intimately involved with various programs including the Window Wise National Certification Program, Energuide for Houses Program, and ecoEnergy. Her reputation as being an information source for contractors, homeowners, local utilities, municipalities, and other organizations has contributed to her success in the renovation industry.

Trina Stewart is the President of Trina Stewart Consulting which offers consulting and virtual administration services to businesses across The Golden Triangle and the GTA. She is currently Marketing Development Specialist for The House Whisperers (http://www.thehousewhisperers.ca), an ecoEnergy Service Organization servicing BC and Ontario.

Home Maintenance Schedules - House Ideas

If you have trouble remembering when you purchased that new refrigerator, washer or other home appliance, you're not alone. What is probably even tougher is remembering when you serviced the furnace filters, checked the hot water heater or when the stove fume hood was last cleaned.

All of these tasks are made easier if you develop and maintain a simple system of recording when these tasks are done. This record should be added or completed as the last item on the list that's kept with the appliance or in a 'home maintenance record book or file.

Having trouble finding the proper tags or file system? Try the local office products store or office products section of your local grocery or hardware store. A simple Journal book will work to keep a running record of home, yard and auto repairs and maintenance. While this record takes a bit longer to find what was done when, it is recorded in chronological order...all in one place.

Another tip is similar to that used by the fire department to record the maintenance schedule of such things as the fire extinguishers. Various tags and holders are available in hardware or home supply stores that permit you to record the date, month, day and year, of the service or repair. This tag is invaluable for items as water heaters, water and furnace filters or any other appliance that receives periodic checking and maintenance by the home or apartment dweller. Many times these appliances are installed by the owner or delivery person and simply "forgotten about" until something goes wrong!

Then it is not only a scramble to get the fixture back in service, but also a hassle to find out the make, model, last service date etc. If you take the extra minute or two to record the purchase, date, location, date, model, serial number or model number, you know have the information you need to contact the local dealer or service department. Also, if you're not inclined to fix, repair or replace the unit yourself, you have the minimum information to begin the process of finding the help or aid of the local 'Handyman'.

Dennis Bries
http://briespix.com

Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Installing Windows - Home Tips

Most carpenters and construction workers understand one thing about eye level. It had better be straight, square and plumb. My dad could walk into a room take a quick glance at a wall and notice almost every single flaw in that wall. I was always amazed at his ability to find problems so quickly.

I have never quite developed the ability that my father has in noticing construction defects at his level. But I can tell you this most people notice a majority of flaws at their eye level. What does this mean? Quite simply if you are 4'6" tall you will notice every flaw possible between 3'6" and six foot.

If you are 6 feet tall you will notice every flaw between 5 feet and 8 feet. You might not notice the window apron but you will notice the window header if there are any problems.

Now the problem is installing windows at eye level and making sure that the window sill is level and the jambs are plumb. Windows seem to get used a lot and therefore will be looked at often. The more we look at something the more we will notice the good and the bad about that object.

Does the window slide easy, does the window lock easy, does the window close and open with little effort? If the window has grids this could be a bigger problem. If you are sliding the moving panel of the window passed the fixed panel of the window and the window is not level or straight you will definitely see it.

If you are installing Windows above 8 feet you could probably get away with the window being a little bit out of level or plumb. If the window is a two-story house and you can view it from upstairs you could have a problem if the window is out of square or not level.

Keep in mind is very important and not hard to do when installing the windows during construction or remodeling to keep them plumb and level. I know a lot of carpenters and window setters that slapped the windows in, eyeball them for straightness and move on to the next window to perform the same task.

Every person's eye level range will vary. A taller person will notice most mistakes five foot and above. A smaller person will notice mistakes five foot and below. Working at someone's eye level is a mistake. Your work should be quality and when setting windows should be done to the best of your ability.

You might ask why it matters. Because you never know when someone smaller or taller is going to be walking through the house and notice some simple problems that could have been fixed easily during the construction process. Now the window will have to be repaired which could be a costly process.

I like to build things right the first time. Take your time, double check everything and assemble with pride.

Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more Building and Remodeling Library and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.

Visit us and get more information on building and remodeling your homes in Installing Windows in Your Home

4 X 4 Post Connection To 4 X 8

Easy Remodeling Primer for Flipping Real Estate

If you've ever considered flipping real estate to make some extra income, only to be dissuaded at the prospect of having to self-manage a sizable remodel on a particular piece of property, you're not alone. In fact, many people, though excited at the thought of buying, renovating, and selling an old fixer-upper, think they either don't have the time, and/or the necessary knowledge to even consider such an undertaking.

The reality, however, is that anyone, even a first-timer, can manage a small-to-medium-sized renovation with some thoughtful pre-planning, and a hands-on approach to monitoring your project. I'm not suggesting that you can just step right into a general contractor's shoes and do something that he/she does on a daily basis. What I am saying, however, is that you can manage a successful remodel by simply giving some forethought as to what exactly you want to accomplish, how much it will cost (assuming you have solid estimates from reliable sub-contractors), and if you are able to make a profit once the house is sold. A solid relationship with your chosen subs is always a good thing too.

Again, if you're new to house flipping, and are considering a flip with extensive, whole-house renovation, then yes, you should probably keep looking for an easier project to do (in terms of potential remodeling) instead of taking on a larger project right out of the gate. If, however, you do decide to move forward, consider some of the more important aspects of a major rehab with the following remodeling primer to help you form a working budget, and to provide a doable timetable to execute your remodeling project.

You will be talking with people in the industry such as:

  • Architects and/or Draftsman
    To do any necessary drawings or renderings for your particular remodeling project
  • Building Inspector
    If you are removing and/or erecting interior walls, you will most likely have to obtain a building permit from your local community building permit/code enforcement division
  • Sub-Contractors/Tradesman
    Trades such as demolition, mechanical contractors (HVAC, electricians, plumbing), insulation installation, drywall installers, painters, trim carpenters, cabinet/counter top installers, tile installers (if needed), flooring professionals, roofers, exterior siding, concrete specialists, and landscapers.

  • Determine what exactly it is you want to do with the house in terms of remodeling. See where improvements/updates can be made for the least amount of time and money. You certainly want to present a professional-looking remodeling job to prospective homeowners so that they feel they are getting their money's worth.

    But first things first. If you have a simple remodel where you are freshening up the carpet and paint, along with a few odd and end type things, you're more than likely able to handle that without too many problems. But, if you're looking at a complete kitchen and bath upgrade, for example, you will need to be aware of the need to deal with an entirely new set of sub contractors and professionals that suddenly makes the project a little bigger. Certainly doable, but just broader in scope.

    The time to develop a working budget, is after you have received all of the pricing back from any of the subs you want to work with. Get at least two prices per trade, if you can. You can get leads on various sub- contractor trades from the phone directory, internet, or the many local hardware, paint, or home-improvement stores around your town. Many good, honest tradesman advertise with these businesses, so you should have more than enough to choose from.

    There will be some personal time involved just getting prices together, meeting subs at the job site, etc., but you want to be as efficient with your time and money as you can be. Once you have a firm budget in place, get with the sub-contractors you've chosen, and set a doable project timetable. Don't be shy about asking a lot of questions. After all, it is you're money on the line, and you want the project to be done in the best way possible.

    Tell your subs that you want to keep an open line of communication going so there won't be any surprises and confusion. And lastly, always account for some sort of cost add-ons that typically occur in any remodel. Usually about 3 - 5% of total remodel cost will do for any overages.

    If you're relatively new or considering entering the house flipping business for the first time, please visit http://www.House-Flipping-Helper.com for more information regarding all things house flipping and remodeling.

    Easy Bathroom Remodeling Solutions

    Here's a list of problems that contractors run into when designing, planning, and remodeling bathrooms. These bathroom remodeling solutions listed below, often create problems for homeowners as well as contractors. Some of these problems have created contract disputes and could have been solved if the contractor or a homeowner was informed properly.

    1. Problems with Old Galvanized Water Pipes: This is one of the biggest problems with older homes. Metal rusts and water running through these metal pipes will speed this process up, considerably. The problem arises when the galvanized water supply pipes cannot be taken apart or unthreaded, to add new plumbing fixtures or pipes, during the bathroom remodel.

    Solution to the Problem: Experience contractors should inform their clients, about problems like this and what they propose to do, if they run into a situation where the galvanized water pipes are badly damaged. There will usually be extra work, which leads to extra money and this could create a problem between the contractor and a homeowner.

    2. Problems with cast-iron drainpipes: these pipes often rust or become separated at the joints, creating water leaks and even areas for tree roots to enter the drainage system. These tree roots of course will cause the drainpipes to clog and eventually will have to be cleared in order for the drainage system to work properly.

    Solution to the problem: informed the home owner of problems with cast-iron plumbing. If the contractor explains to the homeowner, any problems that could arise and a solution, you will find the process of bathroom remodeling a little less stressful. This stress can be eliminated or the contractor and a homeowner with a little preparation.

    If you're a remodeling contractor, it wouldn't be a bad idea to make out a list of potential problems for the homeowner. List as many of the problems as you can think of, that you have ran into in the past or have heard other contractors and homeowners talking about. These lists can be given to your clients when you sign the contract.

    Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors

    If you're really interested in learning more about remodeling, new home construction, home maintenance, home repairs and really want to get the nuts and bolts of home improvement. Visit our web site and select from the best-selling home building books on the Internet

    Water Damage Around Tub Drain

    Monday, March 23, 2009

    Is Your Real Estate Agent in a Hurry?

    If any of these statements sound familiar to you, it could mean that your real estate agent is either in hurry or doesn't have an answer to your question. Either way, this could lead to an unpleasant relationship.

    Have You Ever Heard the Words:

    Don't Worry about a Thing, Will Take Care of You.

    Come on That Roof Will Last for Another 30 Years.

    I Wouldn't Worry about That, That's Easy to Fix.

    How Many Times Do I Have To Tell You, It's Not a Problem.

    I'm on Your Side, There Won't Be Any Problems.

    With a Little Bit of Caulking, You Won't Even Notice It.

    Just Plant Some Bushes in Front of It and You'll Never See It.

    The Floor Squeaks, That Gives the House Character.

    Or What about the Ever Famous, Are You Going to Buy the House or Not.

    Are any one of these experiences familiar to you? Don't be afraid to ask your questions again. Be firm when asking, but please don't be rude and if the answers don't sound right ask someone else to verify or ask your real estate professional if they are positive and know for a fact their answer is correct. It's always good to get a second opinion anyway.

    You don't need to do business with anyone that will not answer your questions and is always trying to hurry you along. If you sign a purchasing agreement with a real estate professional you're not getting along with, ask them to let you out of the contract.

    With no fees of course, there are other ways to purchase a home if your now old real estate agent doesn't want to play fair.

    Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He has just finished a home buyers guide to take some of the frustration out of home shopping

    If you're having problems with your real estate professional, you might give some thought to look in at some home foreclosures, and then contacting someone to help you, after you have found the home that you are looking for. Some real estate agents can be extremely unhelpful

    Floor Damage Under Tub

    Sunday, March 22, 2009

    Kitchen Backsplash Tile Designs - Home Tips

    Creating breathtaking kitchen backsplash tile designs is not something that can raise one's hackles. Right? Quite the opposite, actually. With the staggering array of designs in glass, metal, ceramic and stone to choose from, your rather cavalier approach to this very serious task could prove to be the harbinger of gloom. To add to your consternation is the deluge of fabulous colors and spectacular finishes that demand their pound of flesh, a la Shylock.


    Discard That Antiquated View

    Most homeowners don't really care a fig for the kitchen backsplash, and treat it with an air of disdain. You may like to dismiss it rather nonchalantly as just another too-generic-to-be-effective, functional feature of the kitchen, but the fact remains that this small but supremely significant space can actually transform your kitchen from dull and dreary to dazzling and delightful.

    Today's tile designs are more than just the protection that your inanimate wall deserves. They can become the supreme inspiration behind the most artistic of all creations.


    Challenge The Natural Order

    The best part about tile designs is the simply mind-blowing choice that's available to homeowners. Thankfully, you are liberated from the constraints of the ceramic tile designs. Here's how you can bring about a Renaissance of sorts in your vapid space:

    • Metal tiles: Copper, tin or stainless steel, you are treated to the dual benefits of style and substance. And the fusion of a metal backsplash with other metallic features of the kitchen like the faucets and cabinet handles is a marriage that leaves a sterling impact. Retro, modern or country, kitchens will never be the same again.
    • Glass tiles: It's their sheer brilliance that causes a flutter. These tiles are ideal for those that are keen to look beyond their inherent advantages of ease of installation and low-maintenance, and want their kitchen to shine and sizzle.
    • Stone tiles: Your research on tile designs for the backsplash is incomplete without their redoubtable presence. They leave no stone unturned in sweeping you off your feet.
    • Ceramics: The numero uno choice that seems to have carved a niche for itself in the world of tile designs. With a gargantuan range of colors, sizes and prices to choose from, they have made unimaginable leaps to the frontline.

    These tile designs certainly have what it takes to gladden the hearts of many.

    See exactly how you can easily generate 100's of BRILLIANT Kitchen Backsplash Design Ideas ... F-A-S-T ! See http://www.TrulyLovelyHome.com

    Plumbing Maintenance - Home Tips

    The winter season invites many plumbing problems into our homes. Ice cold showers, freezing pipes, broken radiators, flooding, leakage, are among the many plumbing hardships that cold weather causes. Plumbing problems come in all forms, and worse, they tend to sneak up on us, just barely inconveniencing us until they eventually escalate into a very expensive plumbing emergency. We cannot escape from the invasion of problems into our plumbing system. Nevertheless, we can maintain our plumbing regularly to prevent any of these problems escalating into plumbing emergencies.

    Try some of these winter weatherproofing tips to reduce chances of a burst pipe and subsequently house flooding and water damage to all of your belongings:

    -Heat - Heat the entire area of the house and open doors to allow air to circulate.

    -Pipe insulation - Use foam padding sleeves or special insulating tape to insulate plumping pipes against freezing. Any exposed pipe or plumbing fixture should be kept warm with space heaters (lamps) from a safe distance.

    -Running water - Run water from every valve in your house at regular intervals, this will keep it from freezing over.

    Granted, the chances of a plumbing problem happening are considerably higher in homes with poor plumbing maintenance, but emergencies have also been known to occur in homes that have diligently maintained their pipes. It is paramount to know which plumbing company to call in a plumbing emergency. The plumbing company that you peg as your emergency contact should be able to solve your specific problem without delay, and without using the crisis to further its own ends.

    Operating under the New York State Plumbing Code regulations, Plumbers New York will do their utmost to ensure that your plumbing predicament is nothing but water under the bridge. NYC Plumbers are an expert team operating in Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens, Staten Island and the Bronx, set to provide you with the best and most professional plumbing solutions for any water-related emergency. New York City Plumber provides every home plumbing service you need, from fixing your sewage system and pipeline in case of water problems, to installing boilers in your shower for your convenience. Equipped with professional plumbing tools, New York plumbers tackle both residential and commercial plumbing challenges.

    Brick Design With Oozing Grout

    Dual Pane Window Glass Repair

    For the past few weeks, I have been explaining how to repair a broken window pane in your home. But, what if you have dual pane windows? Is the process the same? Well, pretty much, except for a couple of variations. So, let's review the single pane repair process, and I will point out the differences regarding dual pane windows.

    When we start talking about dual pane windows, one of the first things that comes to mind is vinyl window frames instead of aluminum. When dealing with dual pane windows, you can have either aluminum or vinyl frames, depending on the year the house was built. Dual pane glass got popular in the 1980's, but vinyl frames didn't really catch on until the 1990's. So, if your house is less than 10 years old, chances are you have vinyl framed windows. In either case, I will discuss the differences. Let's say you have a sliding aluminum frame window with dual pane glass. The procedure for removing the frame from the opening and the glass from the sash is the same as with the single pane windows.

    The differences are, first, the glass goes into the frame about twice as far as the single pane window. The single pane window glass went 1/4" into the surrounding rubber. The dual pane usually goes 1/2" into the rubber. So, if both pieces of glass have been broken, you are going to have to order a new IGU (Insulated Glass Unit) from the local glass shop. They are going to want to know the width, height, overall thickness, and possibly the individual glass thickness. The best way to get the dimensions is to measure the width and height from rubber to rubber, write those numbers down. Then, remove the panel from the opening and place it on a table like we did with the single pane window. Remove the screws from opposite corners and pull of the frame. You will be able to see how far the glass goes into the surrounding rubber. If it's 1/2", then you want to add 1" to the width and height that you measured previously (1/2" times two sides= 1"). Then, measure the overall thickness of the unit by removing the rubber from the glass edge.

    Typically, this dimension is 1/2", but not always. There is a metal spacer that divides the two panes of glass. Make a note of the color so you can request the same color in the new IGU. It's either going to be silver or bronze. If you want to get the same size spacer you need to give the glass shop the thickness of each piece of glass in the IGU. If the old unit has 1/8" glass on both sides, and the overall thickness of the unit is 1/2", then they will use a 1/4" spacer. If the glass is 3/32" on both sides, they will use a 5/16" spacer. If you don't care about matching the spacer thickness, you can request the thicker 1/8" glass, and they will automatically use a 1/4" spacer.

    When you get the new IGU home, the installation is the same as the single pane window. Now, what if only one side of the IGU has been broken? Many times the outer pane will break, but the inside pane is fine. You can order a whole new IGU Like we just did, or, if you're the adventurous type, you can order only the single pane of glass that was broken and replace it. I'm going to explain how to do it, then i'm going to tell you the things that can go wrong. After you have the window pane on the table with the surrounding frame removed, you will see a black rubber type substance around the edge where the spacer is applied. This is a butyl sealant, and you have to separate the broken glass from this butyl. The best way to do it is to take a utility knife with a new blade and break through the butyl where it meets the broken glass. Then, take a new hacksaw blade, and push it into the area where you sparated the butyl from the glass. You don't want the hacksaw blade to be attached to a hacksaw. Using your hand, saw back and forth as you work your way around the edge of the glass. This should allow you to remove the glass.

    Once that's done, lay rags on top of the good piece of glass to catch any debris, and scrape the surface of the spacer that will be contacting the new glass. Use a putty knife. Then, remove the rags and debris. When you are ready to put the new glass on, clean the inside of the good piece of glass that you didn't remove. Remember, once you install the new glass, any debris or finger marks on the inside will be permanently sealed. So, clean it real good and check it from all angles. Do the same to the side of the new glass that will be going to the inside of the IGU. Then, run a thin bead of clear silicone around the entire perimeter of the spacer. Set your new glass on the spacer and use finger pressure to adhere the glass to the silicone all the way around.Then, come in from the side, and run silicone around the side where the glass and spacer meet. Cover the window opening with something for 24 hours. You do not want to touch the IGU for 24 hours. The silicone needs to cure. After 24 hours, you can assemble the unit and install it back into the opening.

    There are a couple of things that can go wrong. The first one is leaving marks on the inside portion of the glass. Once you seal the glass, you cannot clean what's between the panes. The other thing involves condensation between the panes. If you have even the slightest break in the silicone seal around the glass, chances are you will beging to see moisture form as soon as the nights get cold and the days get warm. You are going to have to decide if you are confident enough in your ability to do the job right, or if it's better to pay the extra money to have it done for you. Just because you pay someone to do it, doesn't mean you still won't encounter the same problems. The difference is, they have to guarantee their IGU for a minimum of 1 year. I have received many units over the years that had marks in between the glass. The beauty of it is the manufacturer can't dispute it, because there's no way anyone else could have done it except them.

    OK, what if the window frames are vinyl instead of aluminum? Well, the main difference is the glass in a vinyl window no longer has the rubber gasket around the edge. You dont remove the opposite corner screws and separate the frame from the glass. What they do is put either silicone or a two sided tape on the lip of the frame where the glass rests. That's what holds the glass in the frame, then they apply a snap in stop on all four sides of the glass. So, you have to remove the stops first, then turn over the panel and break the seal holding the glass to the frame using a utility knife. Wear gloves during this procedure. If only one side of the IGU is broken, don't even think about repairing just the one side. You will never get that IGU out of the frame without breaking the other piece of glass in the process. But, on the positive side, you can remove the stops without taking the panel out if it's a slider. You can then measure the dimensions of the glass, and order the new IGU. That way you eliminate any need to temporarily cover up your window. The same is true for the stationary portion of a slider, or a picture window. Before you install the new IGU, be sure and clean the lip that had the tape or silicone, and apply either silicone or tape. Either will work.

    You will discover that replacing an IGU in an aluminum frame window is a whole lot easier than a vinyl window. But, in either case, you can do it yourself and save a few bucks.

    John Rocco has been installing replacement windows since 1978. To learn more, visit How To Install Windows

    Framing Wood Shower Pans - Bathroom Remodeling

    Whether you live in a home that has a bathtub or a shower, there is a good chance that structural framing could be damaged if there was any water leaking around the plumbing fixtures. The damage should be repaired before framing your pan.

    If you're replacing a bathtub and installing a new shower this is going to require constructing a wood shower pan. Now building a wood pan will require a level floor surface, shower damn and blocking.

    Now let's start with building the shower damn. You're probably wondering what is a shower damn and what does it have to do with the wood shower pan. The shower damn is actually the area you climb over when entering into the shower. This part of the shower pan enables the water to flow off a shower curtain or door into the shower pan and down the drain.

    The shower damn needs to be at the least 6 inches tall and would be best if it was at least 8 inches. You can use a 4 x 6 or a 4 x 8 for the wood shower damn.

    Next we need to block the perimeter of the pan area in the wall framing that we will use for our shower walls also. These blocks should be at least 12 inches high. This would require using 2 x 12 lumber for blocking.

    After you block the perimeter of the shower pan and installed the shower damn you are ready to have to shower water proffed with a process known as hot mopping the shower pan or using a vinyl liner.

    Well I hope this gives you a better idea of what's involved when framing shower pans during the house framing process.

    Greg Vanden Berge has been building and remodeling for over 30 years and his information has proven valuable to most contractors and homeowners all over the world. He usually tries to write at least two articles a day on home improvement or remodeling problems.

    Greg is in the process right now of working on a home inspection website that will revolutionize the home inspection business. He is also working on a book to help homeowners and contractors as well as other home related professions in dealing with the home inspection process.

    You can visit the home inspection website currently under construction at Home Inspection Help

    Sagging Deck

    Friday, March 20, 2009

    Choosing Types Of House Windows

    A very important part of every house is the fenestration, which means the selection, size, and arrangement of the types of house windows. Windows do much for the exterior appearance of a house and can make a room livable or intolerable, depending on where they are placed and how they operate.

    There are three general types of windows: those that slide up and down, those that slide sidewise, and those, called casements, that are hinged at the side and swing out or in.

    The ancient and honorable double-hung windows that slide up and down have many things in their favor. They are weather tight, if properly installed, they operate easily, and they are not expensive. The ones that are fitted with weights and cords that run over ball-bearing pulleys are the most satisfactory.

    So-called sash balances of various kinds are on the market, which seem to work rather well, especially when they are new; these work on the principle of winding and unwinding a spring. Be sure the windows are sufficiently counterbalanced in some way so that they operate freely and easily.

    The types of house windows that slide horizontally are at the moment more in favor, perhaps because these new aluminum windows lend themselves particularly well to the modern house. If they move on nylon rollers they seem to be rather satisfactory; but they are not as windproof or dustproof as the double-hung wood windows.

    The fact that the aluminum does not require painting partially offsets the slight additional cost. If you consider the repeated paintings that wood windows will require, the aluminum will be cheaper in the long run.

    Many people feel that the metal windows go particularly well with modern type houses and fear that the wood looks out-of-date. This is largely a matter of opinion.

    In a very cold country the wood is less liable to collect frost on the inside, as the metal is a very good conductor of heat, and will conduct heat rapidly to the outdoors on a cold night and may collect considerable frost on the inside from moisture condensed from the warmer air of the room,

    Much depends on the taste of the home owner, either of these two types of house windows will last as long as other parts of the building. If you like one kind, use it. The size and placement of the windows is more important than the material of the frame.

    Glass blocks can be used to let in light and for decorative purposes, but they do not help with the ventilation of a room, which must be provided in some way for every room.

    If the bathroom window can be fitted with a piece of glass that is translucent, but has a surface texture that does not transmit an image, it will save a lot of curtaining, which is often in the way in a bathroom. This glass is known as rolled glass, hammered glass, or obscure glass, and is not too expensive in the simpler patterns.

    Casement Windows

    Windows that swing in or out have a few advantages, but they tend to be in the way. Those that swing out are easier to make weatherproof, and are usually less in the way than those that swing in. When you hinge a window at the side or at the top and can open it wide, you getthe full size of the opening for fresh air, but when you open a sliding window you get only half the opening for air circulation.

    If a window is mostly for ventilation, then the casement (hinged) type will be more effective. But casement windows are not noted for their tight fit and ability to exclude dust, water, or cold. Although weather stripping often is helpful in making them tighter, it can also make them more difficult to operate.

    Well-chosen types of house windows will greatly enhance the beauty of your home.

    Curious About Home Improvement Costs?

    I've Got Loads Of Expert Advice And Useful Tips To Help You With Your Home.

    Click Here For Great Ideas: http://www.houseblueprint.net/

    Poorly Repaired Grout Joints

    Thursday, March 19, 2009

    Good Stair Building Books

    Where do we go to buy stair building books? Do we go to the major retailers like Amazon or Barnes & Noble? I have found over the years the information in most of these books I have purchased from these stores has a lot of fluff with very little common sense stair building application.

    I bought one stair building book that had information on handrails. The front cover looked great and I thought this was going to be a great book reading the reviews from Amazon. When I finally got the book in the mail, I would say about one third of it was math tables for building elaborate wooden hand railing's. These tables were not easy to understand along with the rest of the book.

    Back when I bought the book on building stair handrails it dawned on me that most of the construction workers I have met during my 30 years of working in the field were not very good outside of basic math. Now I knew a lot of carpenters that could read a measuring tape and use a framing square pretty good. But when it came to advanced geometrical construction projects like a stair hand railing system this was out of our league.

    Reading this book or should I say parts of it gave me an idea to write a book of my own, starting with basic stair building I took all the fluff or the hard to understand advanced stair building applications out of my book, How to Build a Straight Set of Stairs.

    I put a lot of time into creating an illustration for every possible part of building a simple set of stairs. I have probably built over 2000 sets of stairs during my lifetime and have explained and taught basic and advanced stair building to other carpenters. Understanding what parts of the stair construction process they understood, I was able to improve my skills as a stair building teacher.

    Most people do not need advanced stair building skills to construct a simple straight set of stairs. If you are building a straight set of stairs and would like a stair building book with lots of easy to understand illustrations along with simplified directions you have found it.

    We're building more stair building books to help contractors, carpenters, handymen and homeowners understand the stair building process.

    Greg Vanden Berge is working on the internet to promote the education for creating simple to follow guides and home building books to help professional building contractors as well as the weekend warriors. He is currently working on more building stairs books and adding useful content to help solve problems created by the lack of construction knowledge in the building industry.